FOOD & DRINK

A cut above:
Michael Annandono is the maestro of Michaelangelo’s kitchen.Heating It Up On Murray Hill
By Christine Howey
Edited by Ivan J. Sheehan

Among all cuisines, perhaps none has been as frequently abused as Italian. It seems anyone with a parmesan shaker and the manual dexterity required to slather tomato sauce on a piece of flatbread or a plate of pasta can call themselves an Italian restaurant. Making matters worse, the atmosphere of those establishments is equally uninspired, tending towards loud tablecloths, scratchy Dean Martin recordings and clumsily rendered wall murals of straw-hatted gondoliers.

Happily, the local Italian restaurant scene has been emerging from this welter of mediocrity for some time, and one of those now leading the way is Michael Annandono, co-owner (with Joe Rutigliano) and executive chef of Michaelangelo’s in Little Italy.

The narrow driveway leading back to the restaurant is usually lined with cars (more parking awaits in the ample lot in back, and there’s valet parking on weekends), furnishing a dramatic approach to the building, which is distinguished by the large yellow neon “M” above the door. The structure itself is well over 100 years old, and approaching it feels like driving up to a speakeasy during the Prohibition Era.

Once inside, however, the atmosphere suddenly changes to sleek, modern and sophisticated. At first glance, it seems like the butter yellow walls in the dining room might become a bit oppressive, like slowly sinking into a large vat of Country Crock. Upon closer inspection, the tone has been lightened with an antiqued finish, so the hue of the room mellows nicely as the evening progresses and the wine flows.

Glass-encased wine racks create pass-throughs to other areas and contribute to a clean, unfussy vibe in the main dining room. The owners put in new walls and a ceiling to purge the space of the antiquated Italian personality it had when operating in previous configurations as Villa D’Estes, Vetturini and Filomena’s. Small, high-intensity key lights above illumine the linen-covered tables, which are augmented by the early evening light coming in from the floor-to-ceiling windows and French doors leading out to the patio.

Even though chef Annandono received his initial training in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, his menu shows influences from all across the country. Veal cannelloni and braised short ribs in a Barolo reduction speak the true culinary language of the north, while other dishes such as the melanzane – a layered eggplant terrine with aged provolone in a sumptuous tomato ragù – has all the distinction of the southern areas of Italy, where the tomato is king.

Dishes that speak
the culinary language of Italy.If you like see-through appetizers, Michaelangelo’s has two outstanding candidates. The marinated Kobe beef tenderloin, sliced whisper thin, combines with mushrooms and white truffle oil for an impeccable beginning to any meal. The yellowfin tuna carpaccio, marinated in lemon oil and looking like soft satin among its micro greens, is equally pleasing both visually and on the palate.

It is virtually impossible to make a misstep when ordering an entrée from the menu, even though there are usually up to seven equally enticing daily specials to consider. The osso buco is a luscious veal shank, braised slowly in a natural veal reduction – a tender and luxurious encounter accompanied by roasted asparagus and fingerling potatoes. The New Zealand lamb shank is equally well prepared, and so tender it seems to tremble and fall apart at the sight of a fork. Cooked in a port wine sauce that has the intense headiness of a liqueur, and served with roasted zucchini and a crispy potato pancake, this plating is hearty and intriguing from start to finish.

Among the specials, a roast duck surprises as its delicate rosemary seasoning combines with blueberries (as opposed to the familiar cherries), along with veal demi-glace, to fashion a unique and stunningly satisfying experience. Although the porcini mushroom risotto is flavorful, the fragile balance of this dish slipped a bit, and was a tad starchy and oily.

The table service, under the guidance of maître d’ Marco Rossi, is quietly professional and unobtrusive. Rossi, who looks like a cover model for Silhouette novels, glides among the tables as if mounted on ball bearings; when one waiter was clearly nervous and a bit uncertain, Rossi was able to McSteamy out any wrinkles.

More treasures await with the dessert offerings. The banana and chestnut terrine is garlanded with a dense and firm chocolate ganache, making for a gloriously rich conclusion. A perfunctory tiramisu is not as notable as the macchiato mousse, featuring a dark chocolate and espresso mousse lightened to mimic the color of coffee with cream. The star of the endgame, though, is the panna cotta, an impeccable combination of baked Italian cream and organic berries laced with balsamic and lavender. In this memorable dish, the varied flavor tones dart in and out like playful, colorful sprites.

There are two special touches you won’t find on the menu that make a visit to Michaelangelo’s even more enjoyable: All devotees of dark and cozy lounges should arrive early for a cocktail in the fireplace-dominated bar, a nook so retro-moody you half expect Bogie and Bacall to be chatting it up in the corner. And in warm weather, the second floor patio is perfectly situated to offer a view of University Circle’s mini-skyline.

From start to finish, Michaelangelo’s speaks Italian in fresh, bold and distinctive ways. And there isn’t a red-checkered tablecloth or signed photo of Jerry Vale to be found.

MICHAELANGELO’S
2198 Murray Hill Road, Cleveland
216-721-0300

Mon-Thurs: 5:30 – 10 p.m.
Fri-Sat: 5:30 –11 p.m.
Reservations recommended.
Wheelchair accessible.Takeout available.
Seasonal outdoor dining. $$$$

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