Northern Ohio Live : February 2008 : In The Kitchen

recipe file
Buckwheat Blini with Beluga Caviar and Beurre Fondue with Fresh Chives

Ingredients
• 1/4 ounce package of active dry yeast
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 2 cups lukewarm milk
• 2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
• 1 cup buckwheat flour
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 large eggs, beaten
• sour cream
• chives, minced
• 4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
• Beluga caviar

Directions
Place yeast, 1/2 teaspoon sugar and 1/3 cup lukewarm water in a bowl and proof for 10 minutes. Stir in one cup of the milk, the remaining sugar, salt, melted butter and both flours. Beat for one minute. Cover this mixture and let sit for two hours. Beat the eggs with the remaining cup of milk and stir into mixture. Allow this batter to sit for another hour or until it has doubled in volume. Proceed as if making normal pancakes using a pan or griddle with melted butter.

For beurre fondue:

Ingredients
• 1 tablespoon cold water
• 4 tablespoons cold butter

Directions
Place ingredients in small sauce pot. Beat over high heat until emulsified, and season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Serving
Place blini on a warm plate, pour a small amount of beurre fondue around them and place caviar on top of blini. Garnish with diced chives. Serve the sour cream on the side.

– menu and recipe courtesy of Zack Bruell.

recipe file
Lobster-stuffed Filet Mignon on a Melted Leek Risotto Cake with King Crab and Asparagus Cream

Ingredients
• 1 whole, live chick lobster
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1/2 cup sweet onion, 1/4-inch dice
• 3/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1/4 cup minced fresh chives
• salt and pepper, to taste

• 4 five-ounce filets mignon
• salt and pepper, to taste

Directions
Steam lobster covered in wine for 12 minutes. Remove lobster and let cool. Remove meat and chop into 1-inch pieces. Sauté onions in butter until soft, and add breadcrumbs, eggs, chives, lobster meat and seasoning. Toss well to combine.

Butterfly filets and divide lobster stuffing between four filets. Bake for approximately 12 minutes at 400 degrees, or until desired doneness. Reserve in a warm space.

For king crab and asparagus cream:

Ingredients
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 8 ounces king crab meat, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 cup asparagus tips

Directions
Reduce lobster cooking liquid by half, add cream, and reduce by half again. Add crab meat and asparagus tips, and cook until asparagus are just cooked.

For leek risotto cake:

Ingredients
• 1 cup diced leeks (white parts only)
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 cup Arborio rice
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 3 tablespoons olive oil

Directions
Sauté leeks in butter until soft. Add Arborio rice and cook two minutes. Add hot stock one cup at a time until all is absorbed. Season to taste and chill. Form into 3-inch patties, and brown both sides in olive oil (this may be done a day ahead and reheated with filets).

Serving
Place a risotto cake in center of warm plate, top with stuffed filet, and spoon crab and asparagus sauce over and around the filet.

– menu and recipe courtesy of Randal Johnson.

recipe file
Mocha Panna Cotta with Berry Sauce

Ingredients
• 3 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1 1/2 gelatin sheets
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 3 tablespoons coffee grounds
• 4 ounces semisweet chocolate

Directions
In a pot, heat cream with vanilla, sugar and the coffee grounds. Let steep for about five minutes. Strain the mixture to remove the coffee grounds. In a clean pot, add the cream mixture and the gelatin. Stir until dissolved. Place chocolate in a bowl and add the cream. Stir until the chocolate melts and is fully incorporated. Pour into ramekins and chill until it is firm.

For berry sauce:

Ingredients
• 1/2 pint raspberries
• 1/2 pint strawberries
• 1/8 cup sugar

Directions
Slice strawberries and place in a bowl with raspberries. Add sugar, then stir and gently mash berries until sugar is dissolved.

Serving
Serve dessert cold with berry sauce.

– menu and recipe courtesy of Wyatt Grace.

Tastemaker: Zack Bruell, Chef/Owner, Parallax, 2179 West 11 Street, Cleveland, 216-583-9999; Chef/Restaurateur, Table 45, Intercontinental Hotel & Conference Center, 9801 Carnegie Avenue, Cleveland, 216-707-4045.

Ivan J. Sheehan: Why do you think there is such a strong connection between food and wine, and romance?

ZB: It’s about memory. Food and wine is about memory, memory associations. And, obviously, grapes, wines are about romance. Food to me is about memory association [and] a lot of romance is memory association.

IJS: What are some of the essential elements of a Valentine’s Day dining experience – or any romantic meal?

ZB: It’s about setting a mood. You can set the mood with a burger from McDonald’s if it’s done right: presentation, lighting, smell, temperature. As far as the food: texture. That’s real important. I’m into texture when it comes to food; changing textures through a meal, and that can be very sensual without people really understanding that. Foreplay: that’s what dining is. That’s part of what it is, especially this day.

ZB: It’s decadent simplicity. You’re talking about caviar, lobster – those are decadent foods, those are luxury foods. If you’re preparing that for somebody, they know you went the extra step to impress them.

ZB: Krug champagne is a cult champagne. A lot of people consider it the best champagne in the world. It’s my favorite champagne. This is splurging beyond splurging; it’s one of the most expensive champagnes out there. You don’t see it a lot. I like stuff that’s different. This is different – it’s really big, bold, that’s the style. And the rosé fits with the day… and it’s unusual, too, but it’s not a sweet wine.

IJS: In your years working in restaurants, what is the strangest Valentine’s Day request you’ve ever had?

ZB: Believe it or not, that one actually stumps me. A lot of stuff I just try to forget. I could tell you my best days, but [those] aren’t printable.

Tastemaker: Randal Johnson, Executive Chef/Owner, MolIinari’s, 8900 Mentor Avenue, Mentor, 440-974-2750

IJS: Why do you think there is such a strong connection between food and wine, and romance?

RJ: I think food and wine affect you with all your senses – taste, smell, touch, hearing… as does romance. Wonderful food and wine combinations bring out feelings of completeness, of satiety – as does romance. Finding your favorite wine and food pairing is almost as good as finding your soul mate… well, almost.

IJS: What are some of the essential elements of a Valentine’s Day dining experience – or any romantic meal?

RJ: Any romantic meal should contain candlelight, soft, feel-good music, interesting food and wine combinations that hit all senses – sweet, salty and especially spicy, to get your blood flowing. Chocolate! Of course, someone preparing all those things for you and cleaning up.

RJ: Our menu hits on pairing. Not only pairing foods that work especially well together, and are sumptuous and sensual, but pairing a wine that will bring out the best of the food and vice versa. Our menu features interesting texture combinations, flavor combinations, many luxurious items that we all associate with special occasions. And, a healthy dose of chocolate!

RJ: I find Rhône wines to be perfect wines to complement richness in a very user-friendly manner. It is structured without being overbearing; earthy, velvety and luxurious. The entrée has a level of richness that needs an assertive wine that shows restraint. This is that wine.

IJS: In your years working in restaurants, what is the strangest Valentine’s Day request you’ve ever had?

RJ: Strangest request ever was with an eightcourse tasting menu, where one of the guests was a vegan and neglected to mention that until the first course was delivered. Talk about jamming on the brakes… special dietary needs should be communicated in advance, please.

Tastemaker: Wyatt Grace, Executive Chef, Ponte Vecchio Ristorante Italiano, 2100 Superior Viaduct, Cleveland, 216-556-8200

IJS: Why do you think there is such a strong connection between food and wine, and romance?

WG: Food is something that brings people together. When you get involved in something [like dining] that incorporates more than two senses, it tends to bring out those [romantic] feelings. And, wine makes everyone feel better…

IJS: What are some of the essential elements of a Valentine’s Day dining experience – or any romantic meal?

WG: The atmosphere is important. For me, it would be a dark place, small place. Of course, when you can enjoy a really good bottle of wine with somebody – there’s something about sharing a bottle of wine with a person that somehow makes the wine better. That would be it for me: a good bottle of wine, good food and good company.

WG: Nice soft flavors, things that are kind of rich, the fruit – on Valentine’s Day, I think reds, so I go with that theme.

WG: It’s very good, very different. I actually started with the wine first, and developed the food after that. It’s a very light dessert with a sparkling wine, so it comes together as a dessert. It’s a fun wine to work with, and I think the ladies will really enjoy it.

IJS: In your years working in restaurants, what is the strangest Valentine’s Day request you’ve ever had?

WG: I’ve had to put some pretty expensive diamond rings on a dessert plate before. I have this one couple, they come in three or four times a year. Every time they come in, this guy has the most amazing jewelry to give her… like on Valentine’s Day. That’s fun, especially having an open kitchen, so I can see the reaction.